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This is the long version.
The assembly manual's Print the Airframe step gives you the settings on their own, for people who already print. This page explains what every one of those numbers does, and what to do when a print comes out wrong.
Written for someone who has never printed an aircraft before. Nine steps, then a troubleshooting table.
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The manual holds the numbers, this page holds the reasoning.
Where a value appears in both, the manual wins. Keep its settings table open beside you.
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TerraHawk is cut into segments so it fits on a normal desktop printer. Those segments print in two different filaments, and the split is deliberate.
Lightweight foaming filament makes the shape of the aircraft: fuselage segments, wing segments, elevons, nose cone. This is most of the airframe by volume and almost none of it by weight. It is a bit soft and crumbly if you squeeze it, and that is normal.
PETG makes the parts that take load: the durable plates the wings and nose cone separate at, the mounts, anything a bolt or spar passes through. PETG is tough and does not shatter. It is roughly three times heavier for the same volume, so it is used only where it earns its place.
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Which part is which?
The Segments Overview image in the manual, and the Part Orientation section under it. You do not have to guess.
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Almost any modern machine will do. TerraHawk is designed around a modest one.
Minimum: a 220 × 220 × 210mm build area and a standard 0.4mm nozzle. The tallest part is 208mm, so there is no room under 210mm of Z height. The manual's Tools and consumables list names the known-good printers.
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Two things to check before you start.
Foaming PLA wants 220 to 245 °C. If you are using ABS-GF or LW-ASA you also need an enclosed printer, plus a hardened steel nozzle and extruder gears. Large ASA parts warp and delaminate in open air, and a delaminated wing comes apart in flight.
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Slicer. Use Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer. Both give you fine control over the temperature, flow and cooling that foaming depends on, and Orca supports nearly every printer brand. PrusaSlicer and Cura will do the job, but you will spend longer hunting for settings.
This is the one genuinely unusual thing here, and every strange setting follows from it.
Ordinary filament goes in solid and comes out solid. Active-foaming filament has a blowing agent mixed in. Above a certain temperature that agent activates and the plastic expands as it leaves the nozzle, roughly doubling in volume.
Two things follow.
You must push less filament. If the nozzle turns 1mm of filament into 2mm of extrusion and you feed it as though nothing happened, you over-extrude badly. That is what the flow ratio does. 0.60 tells the slicer to feed 60% of the normal amount. In Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer it lives in Filament settings → Advanced → Flow ratio.
Temperature controls density. Hotter means more foaming: lighter, rougher, weaker. Cooler means less foaming: denser, more detailed, stronger. Temperature and flow are a matched pair, so change one and reconsider the other. Less foaming needs a higher flow ratio, because there is less expansion to fill the extrusion.
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Where TerraHawk sits on that scale, and why.
Deliberately at the dense, strong end. A glider can afford maximum foaming because it carries nothing. TerraHawk carries five motors, a battery and a payload, and it lands on printed feet.
So the profile is cool and dense: still far lighter than solid PLA, but with the layer bonding to survive a VTOL transition. If your test part comes out lighter and foamier than you expected, you are running too hot.
This is also why you should not copy a foaming profile off the internet. Those are tuned for ultra-light gliders at 250 to 267 °C. Use the manual's table.
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Prefoamed is not the same thing.
Some "lightweight PLA" is expanded at the factory and prints at normal flow and temperature. In most people's experience it causes more trouble than it saves. Every profile in the manual is for active-foaming filament. Check the spool before you buy.
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